Tortoise Care: What You Need to Know Before You Begin
Tortoises are among the most ancient and fascinating animals kept as pets. They are also animals that demand a high level of specialist knowledge, and their care requirements are frequently misunderstood by new owners who assume they are low-maintenance creatures. Perhaps most significantly, tortoises are one of the longest-lived animals on the planet — a fact that has profound implications for anyone considering bringing one into their home. This guide focuses on the Mediterranean species most commonly kept in the UK and covers the key aspects of their care.
Mediterranean Species Commonly Kept as Pets
Three Mediterranean tortoise species make up the vast majority of those kept as pets in the UK:
- Horsfield's tortoise (Agrionemys horsfieldii), also known as the Russian or steppe tortoise, originates from Central Asia and is one of the hardiest species in captivity. It is typically smaller than the other Mediterranean species and is a particularly active digger.
- Hermann's tortoise (Testudo hermanni) originates from southern Europe and is one of the most commonly kept species. It is relatively robust and well-suited to outdoor living in the UK during the warmer months.
- The Spur-thighed tortoise (Testudo graeca) is another southern European species, closely related to Hermann's and sharing many of the same care requirements, though with some differences in temperature preferences.
All three species are subject to CITES regulations, and tortoises sold in the UK must be accompanied by an Article 10 certificate confirming they were legally captive bred. Always request this documentation when purchasing a tortoise.
Hibernation (Brumation): Managing It Safely
Hibernation — more accurately termed brumation in reptiles — is a natural and necessary part of the annual cycle for Mediterranean tortoises. These species have evolved to overwinter in a dormant state, and many tortoise vets believe that regular, correctly managed hibernation contributes to long-term health and reproductive fitness. Keeping a Mediterranean tortoise awake through winter using artificial heating is not advisable for the long term, though it is sometimes done for tortoises recovering from illness or those that are underweight.
Before hibernation, a thorough health check is essential. A tortoise must have a healthy body weight — vets often use the Jackson ratio or Mcintyre weight-to-length formula to assess this. An underweight tortoise should not be hibernated. Eyes should be clear, the tortoise should be active and feeding well into late summer, and any health concerns should be addressed before hibernation begins.
The process of preparing a tortoise for hibernation involves winding down feeding in early autumn and allowing the digestive tract to empty completely — undigested food during hibernation can rot in the gut and prove fatal. After a warm bath to encourage the emptying of the bowel and bladder, the tortoise can be placed into hibernation.
The hibernation container should be insulated — a box within a box with packing material such as shredded paper or straw between the layers works well. The critical temperature range during hibernation is between 5 and 10 degrees Celsius. Temperatures above 10 degrees Celsius will cause the tortoise to burn through its fat reserves too quickly. Temperatures below 5 degrees Celsius risk causing cell damage, crystallisation of fluids in tissues, and death. A refrigerator set to maintain 5 degrees Celsius is sometimes used, but temperatures must be monitored carefully as domestic fridges can fluctuate and drop below the safe minimum. A cool, frost-free shed or garage is often the most practical option, with a thermometer checked regularly throughout winter.
At the end of hibernation, warm the tortoise gradually to room temperature, offer a bath, and provide access to heat and UV light before offering food. A post-hibernation health check with a reptile vet is strongly recommended.
Diet: Mediterranean Weeds and Grasses, Not Fruit
The diet of Mediterranean tortoises in the wild consists almost exclusively of tough, dry, low-protein Mediterranean grasses, wildflowers, and weeds. Replicating this in captivity is one of the most important aspects of their care, and one of the most commonly misunderstood.
Fruit must be avoided entirely for Mediterranean tortoise species. The high sugar content of fruit is not something their digestive systems evolved to handle, and regular fruit feeding can cause significant disruption to gut flora, encourage harmful fermentation in the digestive tract, and contribute to bladder stones. Well-meaning owners who offer fruit as a treat are inadvertently causing harm.
Suitable foods include:
- Garden weeds such as dandelion leaves and flowers, plantain, clover, and vetch
- Wildflowers including pansies, hibiscus, and rose petals
- Dried grasses and hay when fresh grazing is not available
- Occasional dark leafy greens such as spring greens and rocket as a supplement
Commercial tortoise food mixes based on dried herbs and grasses can be useful during winter months when outdoor grazing is not possible. The diet should be high in fibre, low in protein, and low in sugar.
UVB Lighting and Metabolic Bone Disease
Like bearded dragons, tortoises require UVB exposure to synthesise vitamin D3 and absorb dietary calcium. Tortoises kept outdoors in the UK during summer months will generally receive adequate UV from natural sunlight, though the UK's variable climate means reliable outdoor UV exposure cannot always be guaranteed.
For tortoises kept indoors or in a tortoise house during the warmer parts of the day, a high-output UVB tube — such as an Arcadia 12% T5 — is essential. Without adequate UVB, calcium metabolism fails regardless of how much calcium is in the diet, leading to metabolic bone disease. Signs of MBD in tortoises include soft or deformed shell, difficulty moving, and swollen limbs. Prevention through correct lighting is infinitely preferable to treatment.
Pyramiding: A Sign of Poor Husbandry
Pyramiding refers to the abnormal upward growth of the scutes — the individual segments — of a tortoise's shell, giving it a lumpy, pyramid-like appearance rather than the smooth dome of a healthy tortoise. Significant pyramiding is a welfare indicator and suggests that something in the tortoise's husbandry has been incorrect.
Excess dietary protein is one of the most significant drivers of pyramiding. Diets containing high-protein foods — including dog food, cat food, or even protein-rich vegetables in excess — push abnormal shell growth. Incorrect humidity levels during the growing years have also been implicated. Pyramiding that is already present cannot be reversed, but it can be halted by correcting husbandry going forward.
Lifespan: A Commitment Like No Other
Mediterranean tortoises routinely live for 50 years in captivity, and individuals exceeding 100 years are documented. This is not a metaphor or an exaggeration — it is the reality of keeping these animals. A tortoise purchased for a child today may well outlive that child's parents. This demands serious consideration about long-term care planning, including naming a caretaker in legal documents if needed.
For those prepared to meet their considerable needs, tortoises are remarkable animals — quiet, fascinating, and surprisingly individual in personality. The responsibility is immense, but so is the reward of sharing life with an animal that may still be thriving long after everything else in your life has changed.